The Garment Manufacturing Process, Step by Step: From Tech Pack to Packed Carton

Bundles of cut jersey garment panels tied with fabric strips on a cutting table, with a straight-knife cutter, paper patterns and sewing lines behind.

A garment goes through roughly nine stages between a drawing and a packed carton, and a brand only controls four of them. Knowing which four is the difference between a range that arrives as expected and one that arrives as a surprise. This guide walks the whole process in the order it happens on our floor in Narayanganj, says who does what, and marks the points where your approval stops the line until you give it.

The nine stages, and where your approval is needed

StageWho does itTypical timeYour decision
1. Brief and tech packYou, with us if neededDays to weeksSign off the spec
2. Pattern and gradingFactory pattern room3–5 daysNone yet
3. Fabric bookingFactory, at partner mills10–20 daysApprove the lab dip
4. Fit sampleFactory sample roomAbout 10 daysComment or approve
5. Pre-production sampleFactory sample roomAbout 10 daysApprove: bulk cannot start without it
6. CuttingCutting room1–3 daysNone
7. SewingThe lineWithin the 40–50-day production windowNone
8. Finishing and decorationIn-house print and embroideryRuns alongside sewingApprove strike-offs
9. QC, packing, shippingQC team, then freight3–7 days, then freight on topApprove the inspection report
Indicative durations for a knit order of a few hundred pieces on our own floor. Complex constructions, multiple colourways and peak season all move these figures, and we quote the calendar for your order rather than this table.

The four moments that are genuinely yours are the tech pack, the lab dip, the pre-production sample and the inspection report. Everything else is ours to run. If a supplier asks you to approve nothing before bulk, that is not flexibility, it is risk being transferred to you quietly.

1. The brief and the tech pack

Production starts when a drawing becomes measurements. A tech pack turns your idea into the numbers a pattern cutter works from: finished measurements at every point of measure, fabric and weight, trims, stitch types, label placement and tolerances. You do not need one to begin. A sketch, a garment you like and a paragraph about your customer are enough for us to build the pack with you, and our guide to making one shows what a complete pack contains.

What this stage decides is everything downstream. A vague brief does not produce a vague garment; it produces a specific garment chosen by somebody else. The free tech pack template and checklist are there so that does not happen.

2. Pattern making and grading

The pattern room turns the spec into paper or digital pieces: front, back, sleeves, neck rib, pockets, facings. Then those pieces are graded, scaled up and down across your size range, which is not simple multiplication. A chest grows differently from an armhole, and a good grade is why an XL fits an XL customer rather than looking like a stretched medium. Our size chart guide covers the measurements to give us.

Pattern and grading are one-off costs. They are the same money whether you order a low-MOQ run of 150 pieces or 10,000, which is the single biggest reason unit price falls as quantity rises.

3. Fabric: knitting, dyeing and finishing

This is the stage most brands underestimate, and it is usually the longest. Yarn is knitted into greige cloth, dyed to your colour, then finished: compacted to control shrinkage, brushed if it is fleece, set to width. We do this at partner mills inside the same industrial cluster rather than pretending to own a dye house, and we specify, book and inspect the work in person.

Your job here is the lab dip: a small swatch dyed to your colour reference, which you approve or reject before hundreds of kilos are committed. Approve it under the right light and against a physical reference, not on a screen. Our guide to dye lots and colour matching explains why that matters more than it sounds.

4. and 5. Sampling: fit first, then pre-production

Two samples do two different jobs. The fit sample settles the block, often in whatever suitable fabric is on hand, because you are judging proportion and measurement rather than colour. You comment, we correct, and sometimes that loop runs twice.

The pre-production sample is the one that matters. It is made in your actual fabric, your actual colour and your actual trims, on the line that will make the bulk, and it is wash-tested so the measurements you approve are measurements after washing. When you sign it off we seal it, and every piece in the run is measured against that sealed garment. How clothing sampling works covers the costs and the timings.

6. Cutting: the marker decides your fabric bill

Cutting begins with a marker, a map of every pattern piece nested together as tightly as possible across the fabric width. Marker efficiency, usually between the high seventies and the high eighties as a percentage, decides how much cloth your order consumes and therefore a large part of what it costs. Fabric is then laid up in plies, sometimes a hundred deep, cut with a straight knife or automatic cutter, and bundled by size and shade.

Bundling by shade matters. Even within one dye lot there can be slight variation between rolls, so pieces are kept together so that a single garment is never assembled from two different rolls. Our guide to fabric consumption shows how the arithmetic works.

7. Sewing: where the lead time goes

A sewing line is a sequence of operations, each with a measured time: join shoulders, attach neck rib, set sleeves, close side seams, hem, attach labels. A simple tee might be a dozen operations; a zip-through hoodie with pockets and drawcords can be forty. The line is balanced so no station becomes a bottleneck, and output is measured per hour against a target.

This is why construction changes price more than most founders expect. Adding a pocket is not a materials decision, it is minutes per garment multiplied by the whole run. It is also why the first run of a new style is slower than the third: the line learns it.

8. Finishing and decoration

Printing, embroidery and washing happen either before assembly, as with a chest print applied to a cut panel, or after, as with garment dye. We run screen printing, DTF and DTG, embroidery and sublimation in our own building, which removes a handover that otherwise adds a week and a second quality risk. Our guide to garment dyeing, acid wash and washed looks explains what each after-sewing process does to shrinkage and colour.

You approve a strike-off or an embroidery sew-out before bulk decoration, for the same reason you approve a lab dip. Screen printing vs embroidery vs DTG explains which method suits which artwork.

9. Quality control, packing and shipping

Inspection happens during the line, not only at the end, and then as a final random inspection against an AQL standard. Walter Meyer's team measures finished pieces against the sealed sample, checks seams, prints, labels and shade, and produces a report. Garments are then folded, poly-bagged, cartoned, and the cartons marked to your packing list.

We ship DDP, so freight, clearance and duty sit inside one landed price, and the commercial invoice, packing list and statement on origin reach you before the goods move. The freight and Incoterms guide covers what each term includes.

Where the calendar actually goes

Founders usually assume sewing is the long pole. It rarely is. On a typical 40 to 50 day production window, fabric is the largest single block, sewing is the second, and the stages a brand can shorten are the ones before the clock starts: how fast the tech pack is finalised, how quickly the lab dip is approved, and how long the pre-production sample sits in an inbox. All in, that is about 70 days from order to your door by air; sea freight adds about a month. The launch date calculator counts backwards from your on-sale date and tells you plainly if the plan is short.

What clients say

Collective Studios under the direction of Mr Jamish and his daughter Homaira represent the future of RTW production in Bangladesh. A thorough approach to detail governed by a genuine standard of quality. Masters of and partners in the process!
Donald DolceUSA
Best supplier! On time, reliable and perfect craft.
Carina PerssonIINA Clothing, Sweden
Read every review on Google ↗

Frequently asked questions

What are the stages of garment manufacturing?

Nine, in this order: the brief and tech pack; pattern making and grading; fabric knitting, dyeing and finishing; a fit sample; a pre-production sample; cutting; sewing; finishing and decoration; then quality control, packing and shipping. A brand controls four moments in that sequence rather than the whole of it: signing off the tech pack, approving the lab dip, approving and sealing the pre-production sample, and accepting the inspection report. Everything else is the factory's to run. If a supplier asks you to approve nothing before bulk production starts, that is not flexibility, it is risk quietly transferred onto you, and it is the most common reason a first order arrives looking like something you did not order. On a knit order of a few hundred pieces, production normally runs about forty to fifty days from pre-production sample approval to ready-to-ship, with freight on top.

Which stage takes the longest?

Fabric, almost always, and it surprises most founders who assume sewing is the long pole. Yarn has to be knitted into greige cloth, dyed to your approved colour and then finished, and each colour is its own production run measured in hundreds of kilos. On a typical forty to fifty day window that block is usually the largest single piece, with sewing second. The parts you can genuinely shorten sit before the clock starts: how quickly the tech pack is finalised, how fast you approve the lab dip, and how long the pre-production sample waits in somebody's inbox. Our launch date calculator counts back from your on-sale date and says plainly whether the plan is short. Booking fabric early, or holding cloth for a style you already know will repeat, is the one lever that genuinely shortens a second order rather than a first.

What is the difference between a fit sample and a pre-production sample?

They answer different questions. A fit sample settles proportion and measurement, and is often made in whatever suitable fabric is on hand, because you are judging the block rather than the colour. You comment, the pattern is corrected, and occasionally that loop runs twice. A pre-production sample is made in your actual fabric, colour and trims, on the line that will make the bulk, and it is wash-tested so the measurements you sign off are the measurements after washing. When you approve it we seal it, and every piece in the run is measured against that sealed garment. Bulk does not start until that signature exists. Allow about ten days for each sample round, plus courier time in both directions if you want to handle the garment physically before deciding.

What is a marker, and why does it affect my price?

A marker is a map of every pattern piece nested as tightly as possible across the width of the fabric before cutting. Its efficiency, normally somewhere between the high seventies and high eighties as a percentage, decides how much cloth your order actually consumes. Since fabric is bought by the kilo and is usually the largest single line in a knit garment's cost, a few points of marker efficiency move your unit price more than most construction decisions. Size mix matters here too, because a run weighted towards larger sizes consumes more cloth per piece. Ask your factory for the marker efficiency and the consumption figure it booked against: a cutting room that made the marker can state both, and they belong in any quote you intend to compare properly.

Can I visit or watch production while it runs?

Yes. Pre-arranged visits to the floor in Narayanganj are welcome, and for buyers who cannot travel we run a live video call from the line during a working shift rather than sending an edited film. That call is also the single most useful vetting question you can ask any supplier, because a trading company cannot arrange one at short notice and a factory can. Our address is Plot-A-132, Road No. 02, BSCIC Industrial Area, Panchabati, Narayanganj 1420, and the factory profile page carries the registration numbers you can check independently. Ask for the call during a working shift rather than at a convenient hour, and ask to see cutting, finishing and the packing bench as well as the sewing line, because those are the rooms a borrowed floor rarely includes.

How many pieces do I need to start production?

One hundred and fifty pieces of each style in each colour, because below that the fixed work of booking and dyeing fabric, making the pattern and setting up the line stops making sense per garment. Sizes split freely inside each hundred and fifty, but colours cannot, because every colour needs its own lab dip, approved before hundreds of kilos of cloth are knitted and dyed. One style in three colours means three lab dips, three runs of cloth and four hundred and fifty pieces. A second style is its own hundred and fifty in each colour, even in a colour you already have. Pattern making and grading cost the same whether you order a hundred and fifty pieces or ten thousand, so a bigger run spreads that one-off work across more garments, and each new style still needs its own fit and pre-production sample before bulk. You do not need a finished tech pack; we can build it with you. Our MOQ calculator shows what different style and colour splits do to your total.

Which stages of garment manufacturing need my approval?

A brand normally approves four things during garment manufacturing: the tech pack, the lab dip for each colour, the pre-production sample and the final inspection report. The tech pack fixes measurements, fabric, trims and labels before a pattern is cut. The lab dip settles each colour on your fabric before the mill dyes it in bulk. The pre-production sample, made in your real fabric, colour and trims, is the one bulk cannot start without, and once signed it is sealed as the reference. The inspection report, measured against that sealed sample, comes before shipment. If you order printing or embroidery, you also approve a strike-off or sew-out before bulk decoration. Everything else, from pattern making to cutting and sewing, is the factory's to run. If a supplier asks you to approve nothing before bulk, that is not flexibility but risk quietly transferred to you. Collective Studio stops the line at each of these points until you approve.

When is quality checked during garment production?

Quality is checked during sewing as well as at the end, with a final random inspection against an AQL standard before the goods are packed and shipped. Checks on the line catch a fault while it affects a handful of pieces rather than the whole run. The final inspection measures finished garments against the sealed pre-production sample, looks at seams, prints, labels and shade, and produces a report the brand approves. Earlier checkpoints matter too: the lab dip is checked before bulk dyeing, strike-offs before bulk printing, and cut pieces are bundled by size and shade so a single garment is never sewn from two different fabric rolls. At Collective Studio the QC team checks during the line and again at the end, and on a 150-piece run we inspect every garment rather than a sample. Garments are then folded, poly-bagged and cartoned to your packing list before freight.

Where this applies

The manufacturing pages this guide relates to, if you are costing a real run.

Free tools & guides for this

Cite this guide

For journalists, writers, researchers and students.

Quoting this guide? Please credit Collective Studio and link to this page.

Reference

Homaira Jashim, Collective Studio. "The Garment Manufacturing Process, Step by Step: From Tech Pack to Packed Carton." 3 November 2026. https://collectivestudioltd.com/journal/garment-manufacturing-process-step-by-step

Writing about us? Our press kit has our facts, logos and photos, free to use with credit.

↑ Back to top

Have an idea? Let’s make it.

We manufacture from 150 pieces per style and colour, with organic cotton options from our GOTS-certified facility and photos at every stage. Send a sketch or a sentence — we’ll reply within one business day.

Start your collectionMore guides