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Free guide

Fabric & GSM Guide

What GSM means, how heavy your fabric should be, and how to choose the right one.

What is GSM?

GSM means grams per square metre— the weight of a fabric. The higher the number, the heavier, thicker, and usually more premium-feeling the fabric. It’s the single most useful number for describing the feel of a garment to a manufacturer.

Fabric weight chart

110–140 GSM
Lightweight, drapey tees and summer styles
140–180 GSM
Standard everyday t-shirts
180–220 GSM
Heavyweight, premium tees with structure
240–280 GSM
Lightweight sweats and mid-weight layers
280–350 GSM
Standard hoodies and sweatshirts
350–500 GSM
Heavyweight, structured streetwear hoodies

Common fabrics, and when to use them

  • Combed cotton — soft, smooth, the everyday default for tees and basics.
  • GOTS organic cotton — certified organic; the same feel with a story and documentation you can stand behind.
  • Cotton fleece / French terry — the standard for hoodies and sweats; French terry is lighter, fleece is brushed and cosier.
  • Modal & bamboo viscose — extra-soft, drapey, breathable; great for loungewear and intimates.
  • Performance blends (poly/spandex) — stretch, moisture-wicking, and recovery for activewear.
  • Recycled blends — performance or cotton-rich fabrics with recycled content for a lower footprint.

How to choose

  • Decide the feel first (lightweight summer tee vs. heavyweight hoodie), then pick the GSM.
  • Heavier isn’t always better — match the weight to the garment and season.
  • If sustainability matters, ask for GOTS-certified organic and see the certificate.
  • Not sure? Ask for fabric swatches and a sample — feeling it beats guessing.

Want help choosing for your garment? Send us your ideaand we’ll recommend a fabric and weight. Or read the manufacturing glossary.

Frequently asked questions

What does GSM mean in fabric?

GSM means grams per square metre — the weight of a fabric. A higher number means a heavier, thicker, and usually more premium-feeling cloth.

What GSM is best for a t-shirt?

Everyday t-shirts are usually 140–180 GSM. Lightweight summer tees sit around 110–140 GSM, while premium, structured tees run 180–220 GSM.

What GSM is a good hoodie?

Standard hoodies and sweatshirts are around 280–350 GSM. Heavyweight streetwear hoodies run 350–500 GSM for a thick, structured feel.

Which fabric is best for clothing?

It depends on the garment: combed or organic cotton for tees, French terry or fleece for hoodies, modal or bamboo for loungewear, and performance blends for activewear.

COLLECTIVE
STUDIO
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